Provisions

Oxford’s 10 best restaurants for Winter 2009.

AL-SHAMI

AL-SHAMI – REVIEW
Author: Paull Hammond-Davies

Published: November 3, 2009
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Al-Shami really is one of a kind in Oxford. This Lebanese restaurant opened in 1988, situated in the heart of residential Jericho, somewhat off the beaten track. This fact, however, characterises Al-Shami – they do things a little differently here and are happy to flout convention, and that’s perhaps why their loyal diners continue to return to the restaurant over and over again. For instance, they haven’t changed their menu in eighteen years, something other establishments wouldn’t even dream of. This has meant that people know exactly what food is on offer, but also that it is great value (especially during a time when basic foods are increasingly more expensive). The restaurant is owned by the Mahfouz family and its friendliness and warmth exude from the place as soon as you walk through the doors. The waiting staff are smartly dressed but carefree – eschewing polished formality for a more laidback experience. The atmosphere is charged and bustling, but in a relaxed, appropriately Mediterranean manner.

The main dining area is bright and welcoming, its semicircular exterior wall almost entirely made up of windows that fill the white walled interior with light. There are subtle Lebanese references in the furnishings and décor, but in a modern and unselfconscious way. Lebanese food combines influences from both the Arab world and the Mediterranean, the menu containing many small dishes called mezze. Customers order several dishes from the menu, which is helpfully segmented into cold and hot dishes, fish and vegetarian dishes, and charcoal grill, although very helpfully each dish is labelled as being suitable for vegetarians / vegans. To start, a platter of raw vegetables was brought to the table – consisting of peppers, pickled jalapenos, cucumbers, spring onions, lettuce, and pickled cabbage, and accompanied with homous lifted by a drizzle of olive oil (if you know to ask for it).

The second course consisted of cold dishes, such as Tabbouleh – an aromatic mixture of parsley, tomatoes, onions, mint and crush wheat, Warak’inab, or vine leaves, stuffed with rice, herbs and spices, Kibbeh Nayeh, ground raw lamb with crushed wheat and spices, perfectly seasoned to take away the metallic taste of raw meat and replacing it with aromatic spices. In addition to this, from the hot menu, Sanbousek Biljibneh, pastry filled with feta cheese, and Zahra Maqlia, fried cauliflower topped with sesame oil, parsley, garlic and lemon juice. Both dishes were exceptional, the warm lightness of the feta cheese contrasting well with the crispy fried cauliflower in a tangy sauce. The final course came from the charcoal grill menu – Kastaletta, lamb cutlets served with grilled tomatoes and peppers which were full of flavour, being tender and pink on the inside whilst being dark and crisp on the outside, and Al-Shami Kebab, ground meat with herbs and spices, grilled and topped with garlic and sesame oil which was aromatic and beautifully cooked.

One recommendation when visiting Al-Shami is to compliment the food with their superb selection of Lebanese wines, the product of thousands of years of winemaking. The Chateau Kefraya wines are excellent value for money and the perfect counterpoint to the mezze. Al-Shami also offers half-bottles on some of their wines, which allows the opportunity to sample more than one. The Chateau Kefraya La Dame Blanche 2006 was sweet and rich, calling to mind the clay and limestone soil of the grape. The Chateau Kefraya Les Bretèches 2006 tasted of crushed raisins, with a concentrated, rich flavour. Both wines had a weight and complexity despite their sweetness, which perfectly complimented the many subtleties of the savoury mezze.

Al-Shami serves exceptional food, but that is only part of the experience. Like all the best restaurants, their friendly hospitality means that dining-out is a great pleasure. For the time that you are in the restaurant, you are made to feel like one of the family. There has been a great deal of attention on providing a menu that uses the best ingredients and also means that whether you are a meat-eater or a vegetarian, there is a lot of choice for both. For those who like their evening out to have a lot of character, Al-Shami certainly offers plenty.

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