Provisions

Oxford’s 10 best restaurants for Winter 2009

BRASSERIE BLANC

BRASSERIE BLANC – REVIEW
Author: Paull Hammond-Davies

Published: November 12, 2009
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Brasserie Blanc has a long established reputation in Oxford, being one of only a handful of restaurants that have managed to stand both the test of time and local resident’s ever-changing taste buds. Brasserie Blanc was set-up by French chef Raymond Blanc, starting life in 1996 as Le Petit Blanc (one of four such restaurants), before becoming Brasserie Blanc in 2003 with a new ethos, new look, and new menu. Although Brasserie Blanc Oxford is one of seven restaurants in the UK, it has the benefit of being the first and has retained much of its original personality and that of its founder who dines there at least once a week. Those expecting a similar eating experience to Blanc’s Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons should perhaps revise their expectations; Brasserie Blanc is a typical French brasserie offering relaxed dining and simple, tasty food without Le Manoir’s fuss or formality.

Brasserie Blanc is situated in the heart of Jericho, a Bohemian area known for its great restaurants and cocktail bars, hidden from the touristy hubbub of the city centre. The décor is at once relaxed and intimate in the true French brasserie style – cream walls, veneered wainscoting, rustic paintings, electric candelabras, and large plate glass windows that fill the restaurant in light – all creating the perfect romantic setting. At the front of the restaurant is a small bar and reception area and the first dining room, which leads into the back restaurant which is far larger and looks out onto the Blanc gardens. There is also a Salon Prive for small parties who wish to be separate from the main restaurant but still enjoy the wonderful buzz and atmosphere. The staff are incredibly friendly and attentive, all smartly dressed with an almost Parisian formality in black and white. They are incredibly knowledgeable about each item on the menu, and when they don’t know, they conscientiously find out.

There’s perhaps no better way to start a meal at Brasserie Blanc than an aperitif of champagne, a glass of sheer bubbles that stimulates the appetite, followed swiftly by a bottle of Sancerre, 2007, a complicated Sauvignon Blanc with a hint of citrus rind and grass, the sweetness of the wine establishing itself in the middle of the palette, with a dry aftertaste on the sides. The wine menu offers a wide range of French wines from all regions, though they tend to be on the slightly expensive side, probably around £20 – £30 a bottle but well worth it. One rather wonderful idiosyncrasy at Brasserie Blanc is the offer of a sash around the bottle’s neck, which lets the staff know that the wine should be topped up throughout the evening by them, or if absent, reminds them that the guests wish to do the pouring themselves. Establishing this at the outset avoids any irritation from couples that wish to be left alone or benefits those on large tables who can’t quite reach the bottle.

The menu has a wonderful simplicity, comprising of mostly French cuisine without too much complication or fanfare, from quintessential French dishes such as snails, to more continental cuisine like sardines, Spanish omelette, and risotto. A perfect way to start a meal would be to try the Roquefort cheese soufflé with pear and walnut or the Virgin Mary Gazpacho. The soufflé is one of the most difficult dishes to make, and most restaurants have shied away from serving them, which is a great shame because a soufflé made well can be a wonderfully light start to a meal. At Brasserie Blanc, their soufflés are delicate and full of air, golden and crisp on the outside and with a perfect gooey consistency inside. It is brilliantly complimented by fragrant pears and the woody flavour of walnuts, while the tanginess of the Roquefort works superbly against the Sancerre. The Virgin Mary Gazpacho is also wonderfully light, with subtle seasoning that lifts tomatoes made velvety by olive oil drizzled on top.

There are a number of exceptional main courses on the menu, as well as one or two specials. The pork chop on a bed of deliciously creamy Savoy cabbage was particularly well done, with a roasted ring of apple and roasted tomato, and soft, deliciously firm new potatoes. The creamy jus complimented the meat, which was cooked for exactly the right amount of time and so avoiding that dry, overcooked toughness pork often has. The seared Scottish scallops with a fennel purée and frites were also outstanding, the scallops wonderfully succulent on a tangy sweet jus with fennel, the frites soft and crunchy. For dessert, there really is no other choice than to try the Flaming Baked Alaska for two. Not only is it a wonderfully talking point when the waitress lights the Grand Manier the dessert is steeped in, it also tastes sublime with the chewy meringue, orange and Grand Manier soaked sponge, and delicate vanilla icecream inside. A glass of Muscat finishes the evening off nicely, tasting of sweet, honeydew melon.

Brasserie Blanc is one of a kind in Oxford – a quality brasserie serving quality French cuisine that, although on the slightly more expensive side, is definitely value for money. They also do a set menu for those who perhaps don’t want to spend quite so much, and a Jeune Blanc range of dishes for younger children. It is the perfect venue for a quiet romantic dinner or a large family get together.

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